"22nd [ ] came up to the other camp that went before [ ] then all journeyed together [ ] made a road through the thickets and came into the valley of the Salt Lake and camped on a fine stream [ ] distance 7 1/4 miles"
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All of the Mormon pioneers entered the Salt Lake Valley this day --- except for Brigham Young and his small group bringing up the rear of the exodus." (111 Days to Zion) Orson Pratt and Erastus Snow had gone ahead down into the Valley the day before and were exploring. The journals have a lot of descriptions of the first view of the Valley, and they need to be the ones to talk about it. And if you read no other account of this day, you must read Erastus Snow's description of what he can do with the mineral hot springs he finds. As I looked and read over these diaries, each are descriptive on their own. But none is as descriptive of the day as William Clayton's. I wasn't going to put his in because it is so long, but I just can't leave him out so I put him in at the bottom where he can have lots of room to stretch out.
Thomas Bullock:
"...succeeded in getting thro' the narrow spot of the Kanyon about 4 oclock when we turned round the hill to the right & came in full view of the Salt Lake in the distance with its bold hills on its Islands towering up in bold relief behind the Silvery Lake [ ] a very extensive valley burst upon our view dotted in 3 or 4 places with Timber [ ] I should expect the valley to be about 30 miles long & 20 miles wide [ ] I could not help shouting "hurra, hurra, hurra, heres my home at last" [ ] the Sky is very clear the air delightful & altogether looks glorious [ ] the only drawback appearing to be the absence of timber but there is an Ocean of Stone in the mountains to build Stone houses & Walls for fencing [ ] if we can only find a bed of Coal we can do well & be hidden up in the Mountains unto the Lord [ ] we descended a gentle sloping table land to a lower level where the Soil & grass improve in appearance [ ] as we progressed down the valley small Clumps of dwarf Oak & Willows appear [ ] the Wheat Grass grows 6 or 7 feet high [ ] many different kinds of grass appear some being 10 or 12 feet high [ ] after wading thro' thick grass for some distance we found a place bare enough for a Camping ground the grass being only knee deep but very thick [ ] we camped on the banks of a beautiful little Stream which was surrounded by very tall grass [ ] in digging a place down to the stream cut thro[ a thin bed of Clay [ ] after about a foot depth of rich soil then rich soil again [ ] many mosquitoes about in the evening [ ] a rattle snake killed near the Camp [ ] a scorpion seen by young bro Crow [ ] many of the brethren met in evening round the Camp fire to hear the report of O Pratt G A Smith & several others who had been out on an Exploring Expedition on horseback [ ] they report having been about 20 miles north [ ] about 4 miles from this Camp ground are two beautiful Streams of Water with Stoney bottom [ ] beyond hat is a Saline Country & about 50 mineral Springs [ ] one will do for a barber's Shot & the largest Spring rushes out of a large rock having a large Stone in the middle would make a first rate Thomsonian Steam House [ ] they explored about 20 miles North [ ] they have picked out a place for a permanent Camp ground"
Norton Jacobs:
"22nd [ ] all hands engaged in working our way through to the Valley 4 miles making 110 miles from Fort Bridger [ ] a fraction less than 500 miles from Fort John & 1050 from Winter Quarters [ ] after going 7 1/4 miles today camped on Beaver Creek on a verry good soil [ ] Br George A Smith with a number of horsemen took an excursion 10 miles down the Lake to the North [ ] about half the distance a good soil & the N part barren & with boiling hot Sulpher & Salt Springs [ ] they got within some 8 or 10 miles of the Great Salt Lake but it is hemed in with small lkes Ponds & Pools so that it appears difficult to get near it [ ] in the midst the Lake there is two large mountainous Islands [ ] we came in to this valley opposite the South end of the Lake"
Levi Jackman:
"Thursday 22 [ ] this morning a host of the Camp that we had left came up with us and outhers had to stop because of sickness [ ] our moove was sloe for it took all the able spair hands from 1/2 to 3/4 of the time to fix the road so that we could possabley git along [ ] it took us till fore oclock P M to fix the road and go about fore miles [ ] we had to pas through a Canion that was full of timber mostley maple of a small groath and the mountains came almost togeather at the bottom [ ] but when we got through it seamed like bursting from the confine of a prison [ ] we came in ful vieu of the S E part of the grait Salt Lake that we had ben so long looking fo [ ] it was about 30 miles off a valley of about eight miles wide lay before us the most of it covered with good gras and various outher vegetables but timber was hardly to be seen onley up in the mountains we could se some [ ] we soon camped and wated for Br Pratt and outhers who had gon on in the morning to explore the countrey in the vicinity of our entrance who when they returned reported that they found but little timber onley what was in the mountains"
Erastus Snow (with Orson Pratt exploring the valley floor ahead)
"22nd[ ] this Morning we started again with seven others to explore the valley further [ ] the company united their efforts to mark a road down the creek and make their way into the valley which was only about 4 miles [ ] as we rode down this morning we dismounted and examined the small canyon and found it Practable Practicable to make a road down the Bed of the creek through the Canyon and thus avoid the dangerous & almost impassable Hill upon the other sides of the Precipice [ ] we left a note upon a pole recommending it to the company who acting upon our suggestion made the road through the Canyon and before Sunset found themselves camped upon a creek in the great valley 4 miles from the canyon [ ] our little exploring party took down the valley a few miles toward the Salt Lake [ ] bearing a little West of north struck a Salt marsh fed by numerous warm Springs that come out at the Base of the mountains on the East [ ] The cane Brake Bull Rushes & a kind of large three cornered grass was up to our shoulders on horseback & the immense body of old grass and rushes formed a bridge over the Marsh which our animals crossed without difficulty [ ] Passing next a dry Salt Plane which is evidently covered with water when the springs are flush [ ] we came to a small lake also fed by warm Springs which evidently spreads over the Plane & Marsh in the Spring of the year [ ] the largest and warmest Spring we found was near the Margin of this Lake [ ] it bursts forth from the base of a purpendicular ledge of Rocks about 40 feet high and emits a volume of water sufficient for a Mill [ ] we had no instrument to determine the degree of Temperature but suffice it to say that is was about right for scalding hogs [ ] here are the greatest facilities for a Steam Doctor I ever saw and a stone in the center of the stream before the apperture in the Rocks seemed to say this is the seat for the Patient [ ] at any rate I tried it but had little desire to remain long upon it [ ] all these main Springs are very strongly impregnated with Salt & Sulphur and some of them with coperos & other ingredients [ ] find no Place equal to that east of the Eutah outlet we returned to camp that night ..."
Heber C. Kimball (bringing up the rear with Brigham):
"Thursday 22 [ ] At half past 7 we proceeded on our journey the sick being considerable better [ ] after travelling about 2 miles further Case rode up and reported that one of his wagon wheels had broke down [ ] we therefore after travelling about a mile further formed our encampment on the same creek [ ] I went back in company with brothers Benson and Egan to assist brother Case [ ] on arriving at his wagon we cut a pole lashed it under the wagon and putting brother Bensons horse ahead of Brother Case's hauled the wagon to camp [ ] after arriving at the camp we took the load and put it into other wagons and proceeded on again [ ] after having traveled about 3 miles further we crossed a very bad slough where one of Lorenzo Young's horses mired [ ] we proceeded a little further and found a letter left in a stick by Er o Pratt giving us information where they were and what kind of road we had yet before us [ ] we went on about a quarter of a mile further and camped for the night having travelled about 7 1/2 miles over a very rough and crooked road mostly through thick bushes of willows and having allready corssed this creek 12 times"
William Clayton:
"Thursday 22 [ ] this morning is cloudy and some like for rain [ ] we startd on at half past 8 and soon came up with er Pratts company [ ] there was several bad places in the road where the brethren spent considerable time fixing them [ ] as we near the mouth of the Kanion there is a small grove of Elder bushes in bloom and considerable Oak shrubbery [ ] we named this a Kanion because of the very high mountains on each side leaving but a few rods of a bottom for the creek to pass through and hardly room for a road [ ] it is evident that the emigrants who passed this way last year must have spent a great deal of time cutting a road through the thickly set timber and heavy brush wood [ ] it is reported that they spent 16 days in making a road through from Weber river which is 35 miles but as the men "did not work a quarter of their time" much less would have sufficed [ ] however it has taken us over three days after the road is made although a great many hours have been spent in improving it [ ] in this thick brush wood and around here there are many very large Rattlesnakes lurking making it necessary to use caution while passing through [ ] after travelling 1 3/4 miles we found the road cross the creek again to the South side and then ascends up a very steep high hill [ ] it is so very steep as to be almost impossible for heavy wagons to ascent and so narrow that the least accident might precipitate a wagon down a bank of 3 or 400 feet in which case it would certainly be dashed to pieces [ ] Col Markham and another man went over the hil and returned up the Kanion to see if a road cannot be cut through and avoid this hill [ ] while passing up a Bear started near them but soon was out of sight amongst the very high grass [ ] Brother Markham says a good road can soon be made down the Kanion by digging a little and cutting through the bushes some 10 or 15 rods [ ] a number of men went to work immediately to make the road which will be much better than to attempt crossing the hill and will be soner done agreeable to president Youngs instructions [ ] Er Pratt accompanied by George A Smith John Brown Joseph Mathews John Pack O P Rockwell and J C Little started on this morning on horses to seek out a suitable place to plant some potatoes, turnips &c so as to preserve the seed at least [ ] while the brethren were cutting the road I followed the old one to the top of the hill and on arriving there was much cheered by a handsom view of the great Salt Lake laying as I should judge from 25 to 30 miles to the West of us and at 11 oclock I sat down to comtemplate and view the surrounding scenery [ ] there is an extensive beautiful level looking valley from here to the Lake which I should judge from the numerous deep green patches must be fertile & rich [ ] the valley extends to the South probably 50 miles where it is again surrounded by high mountains [ ] to the North West is another mountain at the base of which is a long ridge of what I should consider to be rock salt from its white and shining appearance [ ] the Lake does not show at this distance a very extensive surface but its dark blue shade resembling the calm sea looks very handsome [ ] the intervening valley appears to be well supplied with streams creeks and Lakes [ ] some of the latter are evidently salt [ ] there is but little timber in sight anywhere and that is mostly on teh banks of creeks and streams of water which is about the only objection which could be raised in my estimation to this being one of the most beautiful vallies and pleasant places for a home for the saints which could be found [ ] timber is evidently lacing but we have not expected to find a timbered country [ ] there may be timber on the mountains which the long distance would render impossible to be seen with the naked eye but the mountains through which we have passed have very little timber on them [ ] in some places may be seen a grove of small fir or Cedar or Pine and in the vallies some Cotton wood and other small timber [ ] there is doubtless timber in all the passes and ravines where streams descent from the mountains [ ] there is no prospect for building log houses without spending a vast amount of time and labor but we can make Spanish brick and dry them in the sun or we can build lodges as the Pawnee Indians do in their villages [ ] for my own part I am happily dissapointed in the appearance of the valley of the Salt Lake and if the land be as rich as it has the appearance of being I have no fears but the saints can live here and do well while we will do right [ ]when I commune with my own heart and ask myself whether would I choose to dwell here in this wild looking country amongst the saints surrounded by friends though poor enjoying the privleges and blessings of the everlasting priesthood with God for our King and father or dwell amongst the gentiles with all their wealth and good things of the earth to be eternally mobbed harassed hunted our best men murdered and every good mans life continually in danger the soft whistper echos loud and reverberates back in tones of stern though quiet determination [ ] give me the quiet wilderness and my family to associate with surrounded by the saints and adieu adieu to the Gentile world till God says return and avenge you of your enemies [ ] if I had my family with me Oh happy could I be for I dread nothing so much as the journey back again [ ] and when I think of the many dangers from accident which families travelling this road are continualy liable to and especially this last mountain road from Weber river it makes me almost shudder to think of it and I could almost envy those who have got safe through having their families with them [ ] yet they will doubtless have a hard time of it the coming winter [ ] Brother Crows family especially have very little bread stuff with them [ ] they say enough to last them two months and they are dependent on the succes of their hunter for support through the winter [ ]this valley appears to be fortified by mountains except on the banks of teh Lake on many of which there is still snow laying in large quantities [ ] it is certain that good lime stone abound in these ridges and it is supposed coal can be found with little labor [ ] from this hill I passed down the Creek which we named the "last Creek" about a mile and there saw a bed of bull rushes of the largest kind I ever saw [ ] some of them being fifteen foot high and an inch and a half in diameter at the bottom [ ] the grass on this creek grows from 6 to 12 feet high and appears very rank [ ] there are some ducks around and sand hill cranes [ ] many signs of Deer Antelope and Bears but not many have been see here [ ] there has been fresh Buffallo signs seen a few days travel back but those animals evidently (do not) stay in this region unless some come to winter [ ] the ground seems literally alive with the very large black crickets crawling round up grass and bushes [ ] they look loathsome but are said to be excellent for fatting hogs which would feed on them voraciously [ ] the Bears evidently live mostly on them at this season of the year [ ] after spending about 4 hours labor the brethren succeeded in cutting a pretty good road along the creek and the wagons proceeded on taking near a South West course [ ] we found the land descend gradually but very rapidly all the way [ ] at half past 5 we formed our encampment on a creek supposed to be Browns Creek having travelled 7 1/4 miles today [ ] we are not 5 1/4 miles from the mouth of this Kanion making the whole distance of rough mountain road from the Weber River to the mouth of the Kanion on this side a little less than 35 miles and decidedly the worst piece of road on the whole journey [ ] at this place the land is Black and looks rich sandy enough to make it good to work [ ] the grass grows high and thick on the ground and is well mixed with nice green rushes [ ] feed here for our teams is very plentiful and good and the water is also good [ ] there are many Rattlesnakes of a large size on this valley and it is supposed that they have dens in the mountains [ ] the land looks dry and lacks rain but the numerous creeks and springs must necessarily tend to moisten it much [ ] the grass looks rich and good [ ] a while after we camped Er Pratt and company returned and reported that they had been about 15 miles north from here and this region is as suitable a place to put in our seeds as they have seen [ ] approaching nearer the Lake the Land is mostly sunken and many small lakes in it [ ] a few miles north of this is a good place to camp and a good spot to break up and plant potatoes sow our seeds &c [ ] there is a little timber on the creek [ ] from 12 to 15 miles north at the foot of the mountain they saw many hot sulpher springs issuing from the rocks as many as fifty in number [ ] one of them the largest falls out of the rocks and then forms a pool apparently 10 feet deep and a rock is in the centre [ ] the water of this is so hot a person cannot bear his hand in but a very few seconds [ ] it is strong of salt and sulpher and the bottom appears green as though it was covered with verdigris [ ] two men back to the president and company to report progress &c then to commence forthwith and plow and plant about 10 acres with potatoes this week if possible and thus continue till the seed is secured [ ] John Pack and Joseph Mathews were selected to return to President Youngs company [ ] the evening was fine a council was held at the Dr Wagon and decided to move tomorrow early to the place designated ..."
Well put, William.
